View Full Version : My stereo upgrade progress
BDiggity
03-03-2006, 10:48 PM
With Jason completing his & Christian showing his progress, figured i better post mine.
Specs:
Kenwood MP400MR head unit
Kenwood RC100MR (x3) remotes
Kicker 6.5" marine coaxs (x8)
Galaxy Sirius antenna
12v recepticals (x3)
Coming next:
Phoenix Gold Xenon 600.1 amp
Phoenix Gold Xenon 200.4 amp
JL Audio 10w3v2 (x2) sealed box
Kenwood SR902 Sirius receiver
Kenwood C710 mp3/wma keg
Thinking about:
Kenwood ip500 ipod controller
BDiggity
03-03-2006, 10:50 PM
Bow remote & 12v recept
Sirius antenna
Captain's remote
BDiggity
03-03-2006, 10:54 PM
Rear seat 12v recept
2 new rear speakers
Amp rack/power distro mess
BDiggity
03-03-2006, 11:03 PM
New captain's spealer
New 1st mate speaker
Sub box & batt spot
Christian
03-03-2006, 11:07 PM
looking good [smilie=appl] [smilie=trink39]
Hoss24
03-04-2006, 09:02 AM
KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK
[smilie=1074.gif] [smilie=1074.gif] IT WILL SOUND GREAT
h2oboy
03-04-2006, 10:30 AM
Looks great!! Especially that stereo bezel :mrgreen:
AMER3
03-04-2006, 01:33 PM
looking good .
JasonSmith
03-04-2006, 02:45 PM
Nice. I like the bezel, however you need to tie up some of those wires. Doesn't look so good there dude :mrgreen:
BDiggity
03-04-2006, 03:33 PM
Nice. I like the bezel, however you need to tie up some of those wires. Doesn't look so good there dude :mrgreen:
I got till Memorial weekend. [smilie=265.gif] Cant rush perfection. [smilie=eck05.gif]
Christian
03-04-2006, 10:32 PM
I got till Memorial weekend. Cant rush perfection.
MEMORIAL DAY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I am busting ass to get it ready for the 18th OF MARCH, that is when us real boaters here in Wichita start our season [smilie=whip] [smilie=whip] (except for those who went out in early January) and I was a slacker.
I ahve my interior back together and just ned to finish the dash and get the starting batteries found and installed
BDiggity
03-16-2006, 11:15 AM
I posted this on another site, but no one was able to help me. Hopefully someone here can shed some light how to do this.
I bought a 3bank iso & a new perko for my 3 batts (1 start, 2 deep cycle). One perko "on/off" is for starter, the original "1/all/2" will be for deep cycles.
Needing verification of the cabling schematic. Here is my thought.
iso bank a1 > alternator
iso bank b1 > starter batt perko > starter batt pos term.
iso bank b2 > deep cycle perko b1 > deep cycle batt #1 pos term
iso bank b3 > deep cycle perko b2 > deep cycle batt #2 pos term
I also have a "jump start" connector so power can be connected outside of hatch to lift or start boat. Where should i connect the pos? I am thinking to deep cycles because the chances of them draining before starter batt is greater, & my hatch & other accessories will be fed from deep cycles.
I installed a inline fuse for stereo system. Where should i connect the pos? I'm confused because my deep cycle perko has "1/all/2 settings". So if i connect wire to a single batt, if i switch to opposite batt, i think i would lose my stereo. Should i just use the "all" setting on the perko? Or should i use a power distro block & run wire to both batts?
Lastly, i used 0g for the stereo equip. The amplifiers pull about 180a, other equipment off the connection about another 10a. Will i need to upgrade my other battery & alt cables?
Thanks for any help.
mnfastboat
03-16-2006, 11:23 AM
Love it
And a couple questions
the Deck, is it water proof front? I seen that before and though about it for my boat as a replacement.
I would like deminsions on both the face plate and internal case. i have limited room behind the mounting panel
Also, where did you get the bezel for the deck?
BDiggity
03-16-2006, 11:34 AM
Love it
And a couple questions
the Deck, is it water proof front? I seen that before and though about it for my boat as a replacement.
I would like deminsions on both the face plate and internal case. i have limited room behind the mounting panel
Also, where did you get the bezel for the deck?
Yes the deck has a waterproof faceplate. I bought mine here http://www.audioallies.com/GetItem.asp?Item=KTS%2DMP400MR
I had the bezel custom made by two guys off this site. One did the actual bezel fab work, then KCHOTBOAT did the powdercoating. I had the bezel created to cover up old cutout from previous stereo.
Here are the dimensions (from site)
Dimensions: Front Panel: 9 1/16" x 3 3/8" x 7 1/8" (230 x 85 x 181 mm)
Dimensions: Mounting (installation): 7 1/4" x 2" x 6 1/8" (185 x 50 x 155m)
cabin fever
03-16-2006, 11:46 AM
looks good.
What are all the 12V recept's for?
BDiggity
03-16-2006, 11:52 AM
looks good.
What are all the 12V recept's for?
The one next to stereo is for blender, cel phone charger,etc. The ones up front & rear are me thinking ahead w/ our kids. 10yr old always brings her portable dvd player :roll: so now she can watch it up front or in rear w/out the batt going dead. The 2 yr old is now on an Elmo kick so i can see her in a yr or 2 wanting to bring some sort of device. Basically its to keep my wife & i sane!
Christian
03-16-2006, 03:02 PM
I bought a 3bank iso & a new perko for my 3 batts (1 start, 2 deep cycle). One perko "on/off" is for starter, the original "1/all/2" will be for deep cycles.
Needing verification of the cabling schematic. Here is my thought.
iso bank a1 > alternator
iso bank b1 > starter batt perko > starter batt pos term.
iso bank b2 > deep cycle perko b1 > deep cycle batt #1 pos term
iso bank b3 > deep cycle perko b2 > deep cycle batt #2 pos term
I also have a "jump start" connector so power can be connected outside of hatch to lift or start boat. Where should i connect the pos? I am thinking to deep cycles because the chances of them draining before starter batt is greater, & my hatch & other accessories will be fed from deep cycles.
I installed a inline fuse for stereo system. Where should i connect the pos? I'm confused because my deep cycle perko has "1/all/2 settings". So if i connect wire to a single batt, if i switch to opposite batt, i think i would lose my stereo. Should i just use the "all" setting on the perko? Or should i use a power distro block & run wire to both batts?
Lastly, i used 0g for the stereo equip. The amplifiers pull about 180a, other equipment off the connection about another 10a. Will i need to upgrade my other battery & alt cables?
Way over thought :mrgreen:
You can use either the isolator OR the perkos, but using both would be overkill.
I have mine wired the follwing
I have 8 batteryies total, 4 for the stereo, 2 for the house and 1 each for the motors, yours will be much easier [smilie=061.gif]
connect the 2 batteries for the stereo in PARALLEL (pos to pos and neg to neg)
connect the 2 terminal of the 3 way perko to the positive temrinal of one of the batteries
Connect the 1 terminal of the perko to the positive terminal of the starting battery
Connect the alternator charging cable fto the common position on the perko (I replaced mine with 4 gauge, mainly since I had to lengthen it)
Now when you are running or charging keep the perko in the all position.
when you get to the spot you want to anchor out switch the perko to the 2 position, isolating the starting battery form current draw. when it is time to start swithc to 1 and fire up, once started switch back to the all potions and drive home charging all the batteries.
I would leave the hatch etc hooked to the starting battery, that way you know the hatch will open even if the stereo batts are dead. I would hook up the 12v outlets to the stereo battery so they do not drain the start battery.
Conversly you could also use the isolator, in lieu of the perko, but you would only hook up to 2 of the 3 available terminals, as if you hooked up each battery to its own terminal then you would have to wire an amp to each battery and it would not be pretty wiring wise.
If it were me (and this is what I did) I would use just the perko.
I would hook the jumpstart terminals to the starting battery
just my .02
BDiggity
03-16-2006, 03:52 PM
Overkill is my middle name. [smilie=050.gif]
I'm following what u are saying Christian, but this was my thought if i do that. If i have starter batt on "1" & the deep cycles on "2", then under some situations i am killing the stereo. example. While rafted up listening to tunes on "2", i decide to start engine, i switch to "1". This would be a hard cutoff of my power to all my electronics. I was also told i shouldnt use "all" because of having different battery types connected & shouldnt start it in "all". This is why i went overboard on my design. :mrgreen:
KCHOTBOAT
03-16-2006, 04:13 PM
Looks great!! Especially that stereo bezel :mrgreen:
Yes it does. I will try and get the vent in the mail tomorrow.
Brain looks good and sure it will sound that way also.
BDiggity
03-16-2006, 04:32 PM
Looks great!! Especially that stereo bezel :mrgreen:
Yes it does. I will try and get the vent in the mail tomorrow.
Brain looks good and sure it will sound that way also.
I used too much compression when posting the pic, just doesnt do the bezel justice. The bezel is beautiful when seen in person.
Christian
03-16-2006, 04:47 PM
I was also told i shouldnt use "all" because of having different battery types connected & shouldnt start it in "all". This is why i went overboard on my design
Are all the batteries not Optimas?
I assumed [smilie=crazy] (bad word) that they all were blue tops, which are a dual purpose type.
In my old boat I had the exact smae type of setup you are describing here, and I never had to go to 1 to start I switched it to ALL and then fired it up. I just had the option of going to 1 if I ran the stereo batteries down below 10.5 volts, and at that point everyhting would be turned off anyway.
If you are concerend about it I would just use the isolator, and hook the starting battery to temrnal 1, the PAIR of stereo batteris to termial 2 and the feed from the altenatior to the common lug on the isolator and it will do the same thing as the perkos, only automatic.
If you are really concerned that you may someday need ot connect the batteries together without the diodes (isolator) in place then you could jum from the pos on the start to the pos on the stereo with the perko on/off and thta would allow you to bypass the isolator and combine all 3
BDiggity
03-16-2006, 05:17 PM
They are Optimas, one is the the D34M, others are 34D. The starting batt has a black case, the deep cycles are light grey. Both blue tops. I guess i am being to anal w/ my connectivity, lol. I thought i would need isolators & the perko so the perko would cut the power to all batts when not in use. Now that i know what is necessary, i should be able to figure this out.
DoubleBlended
03-16-2006, 06:00 PM
looks good.
What are all the 12V recept's for?
Vibrators and Blenders!!!! jeeezzz that was easy!!! :mrgreen: :mrgreen:
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