I have a stain on the hull

[tko232]

I was wondering why its not consistant?

Why did part of the stain wipe right off and others parts not scrub clean?

The boat sat in the water for 3 days over the weekend so I understand why the stain is there, just not why some parts wont wash off?

Should I get some muratic acid and spray the stain?

Or is there an better way to get it off ?

I dont think I can get the buffer and the leverage down there and clean it up.

Any suggestions, and how do I prevent it in the future, will a good coat of wax help?

Thanks in advance!!

[Marine Clean]

No acid. Three days of stain shouldn't be hard to remove at all.

I make a Fiberglass Stain Remover that is comparable to FSR. It's non toxic and easy on the skin & eyes. If it was massive scum then I would say use a small amount of FSR combined with mine. FSR is toxic, so I try to stay away from using it too much.

Cleaning a bottom is a long process for us. I start with lying on my back and scrubbing with a 3M Scotchbrite non scratch pad and my stain remover. You want the pad wet with water, but not soaking. Put the stain remover on the wet pad and start scrubbing. I then come back with wet towels to clean everything up then polish to help prevent future staining.

Some use acid, but I've found that it really opens the pores up and starts a cycle of staining.

There's many of reasons the stain could be inconsistent. That area may sit on a bunk, so it's never been waxed or it could've been scratched before or the gel isn't consistent for example.

Hope this helps and let me know if you need anything.

Donnie

[tko232]

Thanks Ill try some of the stain remover.

I have a huge drive on rack at work so Ill stand up under it instead of laying on my back tho:mrgreen:

When I was done with the ox remover and the buffer we may have missed the stained areas with the polish ?

Do I need to rebuff before I repolish?

[Marine Clean]

If it's on the side then yes. The bottom I don't worry about buffing as much, but you can if you want to....:mrgreen:

It does make a huge improvement just a funny angle.

[mosi]

try a bottle of Sno Bowl toilet cleaner. I have been using it for 20+ years without a problem. For a couple bucks you wipe it on, let it sit for a couple minutes , and rinse it off.

[smilie=trink39]

[K-9]

i had a really bad brown water line stain i took "the works" toilet bowl cleaner and put a couple bottles of it in a pump pressurized sprayer and sprayed the whole bottom half of the boat and the stain was gone in about 15 seconds without even touching it at all then rinsed it off good i couldnt believe it

[big green]

i say get rid of it for good repaint the whole boat then the stains will wipe off just like when you wash your car

[twanger]

Donnie- after we have the stain gone what do you use to protect the hull? I have been using your leverage polish, but would like something that last longer on the water line. That just reminded me I need to reorder some more.

I had the pleasure of taking my stickers off below the rub rail. I had some major shadows. There is still some shadows but the oxidizer remover was a big help.

[Marine Clean]

The polish is all I offer for the protection. If it's in the water fulltime then I recommend wiping it off at least once per week. Couple of drinks, float around the boat and wipe. :)
I would consider wetsanding those shadows on the hull.

[twanger]

I was worried you would say wet sand. I've done small areas but this will be a huge project for me.

[MSU]

i had a really bad brown water line stain i took "the works" toilet bowl cleaner and put a couple bottles of it in a pump pressurized sprayer and sprayed the whole bottom half of the boat and the stain was gone in about 15 seconds without even touching it at all then rinsed it off good i couldnt believe it

I have been told to use this also as some people I know use it.

[Bajapit]

The "Works" from walmart will take off all stains. (* cents a bottle, But you will need to rewax with something.

[derekpfeiffer]

John P turned me onto Kaboom cleaner...took all the hard water spots off my fiberglass and stainless. The boat hadn't looked that good since the day it was unpackaged at PBC!! John did say to keep it away from aluminum tho so I just threw a tarp over the fenders.

I also rewaxed after I was done.

[bajadog]

I just went thru all of this on my boat. It was in the water for 2 weeks while I waited for the A-holes from Ameren to give me the permit to modify my dock. I tried a toilet bowl cleaner I bought at Home Depot in St. Louis and it did not do shit. Then I was told to try Tidy Bowl and it did not do shit. I then called a boat detailer and he told me to use a product called Zing and a cheap pump up sprayer. That stuff did the job without alot of scrubbing as I had already scrubbed for over 4 hours. Do yourself a favor and use this stuff first and be done with it. It costs about $7.00 a quart and it only took 2 quarts to do my boat which is 28 feet long. I know one thing - I will never leave my boat in the water that long ever again. What a pain in the ass. Good luck.

[Griff]

Zing is just a mixture or muratic and hydrochloric acid. Next time, just buy a gallon of muratic acid for about $5. I have used Zing before and it does not work any better than plain muratic acid. Use a pump garden sprayer. Spray it on and rinse it off. It will eat bare metal and concrete, so be careful where you apply it.

[K-9]

John P turned me onto Kaboom cleaner...took all the hard water spots off my fiberglass and stainless. The boat hadn't looked that good since the day it was unpackaged at PBC!! John did say to keep it away from aluminum tho so I just threw a tarp over the fenders.

I also rewaxed after I was done.
half vinegar and water will get rid of all hard water spots a lot cheaper

[csheldon]

Don't know if this has been mentioned on this post. How would a clay bar work on a stain? :confused: