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Marine Clean
04-19-2008, 12:41 PM
How I use Leverage;

If the boat already has a shine with No oxidation or staining then you need the Polish only. I apply the polish by hand with 2 terry cloth towels. I spray 1 towel 5-6 times and wipe on(no hard scrubbing needed). I wipe down the entire boat with a light coat then I come back and wipe the light residue off with the 2 dry towel(polish entire boat then wipe off). I also polish all of the interior fiberglass, dash, metal and gauges as well. The boat dosen't have to be spotless before you apply the polish, but it needs to be dry. The polish has a very mild cleaning agent that will remove things like spider crap, dust and pollen.

If Oxidation, Fading or Staining is present then you need to start with the (OR)Oxidation Remover. I use the OR with a rotary buffer and a wool pad unless I'm removing small black streaks or cleaning the transom then I work by hand. I've used the Harbor Freight buffers for years and they are great especially for the money! All of my employees use this buffer and I've never had any breakdowns or damage. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=90820

Before I buff I always wash the boat down or wipe it down with a wet towel then towel dry. I apply small, thin lines of the OR to the surface(not directly to the pad)and start the buffer at 1200-1400 if the oxidation is bad then hit it a second time at about 2400 to remove any excess residue. I've found it best to use seperate wool pads for each color especially if the oxidation is bad. Most colors will tend to bleed as you are removing the oxidation/fading. If the fiberglass has very mild fading/oxidation then you should be able to run the buffer at 2400-2600 and be done. After I'm finished then I rinse the boat down with fresh water or use a wet towel to wipe it down and then towel dry. I usually like to come back the next day and apply my Leverage Polish after everything is dry. Then apply the polish according to the directions above.
If the OR is not removing all of the imperfections then wetsanding might be needed for a flawless finish.

All of the Directions are on the bottles, but I like to post up in case anyone has any questions.

I only use Terry Cloth towels. I've found they can be used for many years to come and will not cause swirling like some microfiber towels.

I can do a 36' Boat twice with 1 bottle of Leverage Polish. I can buff an entire 36' Boat with 1 bottle of Oxidation Remover unless it's extremely chalky.

Please let me know if I missed anything or if anyone has a question.

Donnie

Marine Clean
04-19-2008, 12:49 PM
This was a quote from one of my customers and is what I see as a simple explanation. He didn't need to use the 3M, but to each their own. :mrgreen:



Okay I used both the oxidation remover and the polish-Heres my results. I've buffed cars and done finish work all my life and I think I know buffing products pretty well heres what I found,
Oxidation remover cleaned up the bow real well and removed all stains and scum. went over it with 3-M perfect it III and had a shine like the boat never had.
Went over it with leverage polish and it looked super. Bottom line its all in the prep as in painting. If you think your just going to use the polish on an older boat and have it look like new your dreaming but if you buff and prep then use polish the resulsts are outstanding.

Keytime
05-19-2008, 06:28 PM
Donnie,

I used the OR on my boat this weekend using this polisher from Harbor Freight:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=92623

This is the first time I've personally used a polisher so I was very careful not to run the revs too high. Mine simply shows settings of MIN/I/II/III/IV and I was running it at I mostly and MIN when I had to get in tighter spots. Sounds like I was maybe a bit too apprehensive with it. I'd rather err on the side of caution on a new-to-me boat. I didn't want to burn the gelcoat, but it appears I was fine. I'm definitely curious if someone more skilled could have done even better. It looks MUCH better, but hopefully someone like yourself with experience can give me feedback when they see it. Not sure if I can get a good details camera shot, but I'll see if I can snap some good pics of it

Per your instructions, I plan on rinsing the sides of the boat down tonight and polishing it. I didn't get the deck buffed yet, but I'd like to go ahead and get the polish on where I already buffed it before proceeding.

I also went through more OR than I probably should have, but I didn't notice your post about putting the OR on the boat instead of the pad. That likely would have help. That's tough to do on the boat sides, but I'm guessing you just put the opening of the container on the boat surface and smear it in a line.

Question: On fiberglass dashes and stuff that may have dulled, do you use OR on those? If so, do you apply by hands or carefully work the buffer in those areas?

Thanks for the additional instructions on here. It helps!

- John

Marine Clean
05-20-2008, 08:42 AM
Hi John,

I'm sorry we missed each othe yesterday. It's hard for me to catch the phone when I'm on a boat. Yes. small, thin lines of the OR directly on the boat. When working on the hull just turn the bottle upside down and put the flip top right on the hull and then squeeze a small line out. You may drip a little, but it won't be that much. Don't be afraid of the buffer with a wool pad. I just finished a black Cobalt and ran it on 2800 for the entire boat. You can use it on a fiberglass dash just work it around the gauges at a lower speed using a very small amount of the OR. Make sure you then come back with a damp towel and wipe the entire boat down and then you can go back over it again with a dry towel then Polish.

Also, FYI for everyone.

I've received two messages about some small water spots when people are applying. Remember, you only need a thin coat of Polish. Spray the dry terry towel only 5-6 times with the sprayer set on spray, not stream then wipe on. Some are saturating the towel and that isn't needed. You will waste allot and also put it on so thick that you'll be rubbing it off for awhile. If you did put it on thick and saw any water spots then just go back over it again with a light coat of polish and it will remove them.

Donnie

36Tango
06-08-2008, 08:12 PM
I just recieved the "kit" that I ordered through the MWBP store. I have the product, I have the buffer, now I just need some skill (and the time to do it).

Marine Clean
06-13-2008, 08:18 PM
So you finished yet Tango. :mrgreen:

Make sure you have the twelve pack handy for the extra energy! Have a great weekend.

Donnie

36Tango
06-13-2008, 11:46 PM
So you finished yet Tango. :mrgreen:

Make sure you have the twelve pack handy for the extra energy! Have a great weekend.

Donnie


No I have not finished it yet. Take a look at the "Its really bad..." thread in the open forum. I have never looked so forward to having the opportunity to clean a boat! It might be awhile, but it will happen!

TW720HVY
06-14-2008, 10:48 AM
Donnie,

The polish only, this comes in a spray bottle? What exactly does the polish do, does it just shin it up or does it also protect it?

I am always interested in trying new products. Currently after a day of boating I use this product called Griot's Speed Shin to remove the scum line and clean the entire boat at the ramp. Seems to work nicely. But after a wash on the driveway will your product also help?

Thanks for your help and time.

Rick

Marine Clean
06-14-2008, 11:42 AM
Hi Rick,

I maintain and do everything with fresh water only. My Polish will protect and shine great, but you also want to make sure your boat isn't oxidized or faded before you apply. If the fiberglass is in good condition then all you need is a light coat of my Polish. Make sure the boat is dry before applying and you are ready to go.

After a day of boating we wipe the boat down with a towel and take her home. My Polish makes the surface slick, so the scum line and transom soot should just wipe right off. My Polish also has a very mild cleaning ingredient, so if the boat has been in the water for awhile the polish can also remove built up transoom soot and scum lines to a degree. For heavy transom soot I use my Oxidation Remover by hand and it comes right off. My Vinyl Cleaner also works great as a Non Skid cleaner just use a scrub brush with it and it's white again.

In short, use the Polish when the boat is clean/dry then maintain it with water and a towel only when you pull it out.

Let me know if you need anything.

Donnie

TW720HVY
06-15-2008, 12:01 PM
Donnie, thank you for the reply. I am going to look into your product, it sounds like it is something I can use for sure.

Thanks
Rick

Big Willie
06-15-2008, 09:39 PM
Donnie, thank you for the reply. I am going to look into your product, it sounds like it is something I can use for sure.

Thanks
Rick

Rick this stuff is the bomb. You will love it. It is the easiest product I have used, and the best results.

TW720HVY
06-15-2008, 10:35 PM
Rick this stuff is the bomb. You will love it. It is the easiest product I have used, and the best results.

Thanks for the info Big Willie, I am going to give it a try.

h2oboy
06-16-2008, 07:40 PM
NoWake - if you're going to be up in the St. Charles area any time soon, let me know. I've got a few bottles of Leverage left over from the boat show.

Andy

TW720HVY
06-16-2008, 10:32 PM
Andy, that sounds good. What part of St. Charles are you normally around, during the days I am in the Valley and could make a trip to you really anytime.

Thanks
Rick

twanger
06-23-2008, 03:53 PM
Donnie-
Can you use the polisher in place of something like QuickClean by meguair's?

I did my wet sanded (2000grit I was nervous to go more course) and then buffed with the oxidation remover. My pictures were crappy and you can't see the difference. I now know why you need to remove the snaps before doing this because you can see the swirls around them.

My next project is the transom. Can you just use the OR to get all of the stains?

thanks

Marine Clean
06-24-2008, 07:56 PM
Donnie-
Can you use the polisher in place of something like QuickClean by meguair's?

I did my wet sanded (2000grit I was nervous to go more course) and then buffed with the oxidation remover. My pictures were crappy and you can't see the difference. I now know why you need to remove the snaps before doing this because you can see the swirls around them.

My next project is the transom. Can you just use the OR to get all of the stains?

thanks

I use the OR to clean transoms myself. Hit it with the buffer where you can and do the rest by hand. Depending on how bad, get ready for some rubbin. :mrgreen:

twanger
06-25-2008, 03:46 PM
there you go again with your rubbin!

ridin hood
06-25-2008, 04:06 PM
Just rub it out!!:twisted:

36SST
07-07-2008, 11:36 PM
Donnie, do you have any kind of quick touch up spray? Don't know if that makes sense, but I've seen some products that you use after each day of boating to get scum lines and spots off, a quick spray type thing?

Marine Clean
07-10-2008, 10:24 PM
Hey 36,

Up in Michigan right now for the Boyne Run then to Chicago next week. Sorry it took awhile.

If the boat's finish is an great condition then you should only need my polish. If blemishes or fading then buff first with the OR. Once it's polished you should be fine with water and a towel after you pull it out. If you keep it in for awhile or have bad water you can use the polish to clean up after the boat is dry. No need for the in between 'quick' shine. The OR will also work great as a transom cleaner. Let me know.

Donnie

Keytime
08-28-2008, 10:30 AM
Donnie,

Here's some Leverage advertisement. Took this shot on the water last weekend.

The boat is my 1999 Checkmate Convincor.

Marine Clean
08-28-2008, 11:29 AM
Very nice Key! Looks like the water was calm. Supposed to be at LOTO last weekend for the shootout, but had to end up helping with a boat wrap here. [smilie=106.gif] We haven't been on the water since July.

Thanks again!
Donnie

Marine Clean
03-18-2009, 02:19 AM
Spring is in the Air! [smilie=trink39]

ggspot
05-31-2009, 10:58 AM
used polish and wax not real happy with it did it end of april and already loos like shine is same as before i did it just keep waxing it?

Marine Clean
06-02-2009, 11:01 PM
Did you use a wax or just the Leverage Polish?

I help many get and keep the shine they want, so I need to ask a few questions. How old is your boat? What type of wax have you used on it before? How often did you wax and have you ever buffed the boat?

I have no problem whatsoever giving a refund, but your shine should last the season and if it's not then we need to work at correcting your issue. Send me a PM or I can answer any questions you might have here on the forum.

Donnie

Fastech
06-02-2009, 11:46 PM
I used the leverage about a month ago, this stuff is awesome!!! Easy on easy off and so far still looks great. My last boat I used some high in carnuba wax, and over time it caused my gel coat to discolor. This seems to be more of a polymer type wax, and my boat is still bright white. Thanks for a great product.[smilie=appl] [smilie=trink39]

Marine Clean
09-29-2010, 10:13 PM
I hate to say this, but it looks like fall is here.
Started pulling them last week and getting them up for winter.

Have fun detailing and let me know if you need anything.

If you need any tips or tricks just ask.



Donnie

MWBP_PromoSales
03-28-2011, 09:19 PM
Leverage and Spider Wax for sale in the online store - come and get it

boatguy94
04-19-2011, 06:25 PM
Bought Harbor Freight's buffer, where do I get extra buffing pads? ( Velcro Type)

Holy Smokes
04-19-2011, 10:27 PM
Most auto parts stores should have them. I bought mine at O'Reilly's in Laurie before.

Escrowdog
04-22-2011, 03:07 PM
Is buffing a boat safer for a novice that buffing a car? I wouldn't even consider buffing a car!! But my boat could use a little more friction in some areas. I mean I'm a tool guy (some would say I am a tool) and know my way around the shop but the thought of burning through something is not pleasant!

Jammer864
04-22-2011, 08:56 PM
To prevent burning, keep moving the buffer. You can use pretty good pressure on it if you keep the pad from staying on one spot. Years ago I tried my hand at color sanding a pickup I painted. Never used the basecoat/clearcoat/colorsand/buff/polish system and it turned out like a mirror. Was awesome. It doesnt take long to get a feel for the buffer, just keep that baby moving! Braaaaaapppppp

Escrowdog
04-23-2011, 08:40 AM
To prevent burning, keep moving the buffer. You can use pretty good pressure on it if you keep the pad from staying on one spot. Years ago I tried my hand at color sanding a pickup I painted. Never used the basecoat/clearcoat/colorsand/buff/polish system and it turned out like a mirror. Was awesome. It doesnt take long to get a feel for the buffer, just keep that baby moving! Braaaaaapppppp

Right on! I've got a 20% Harbor Freight coupon burning a hole in my pocket. :mrgreen:

Wild
05-22-2011, 08:30 PM
gonna hit the entire boat this weekend with spider wax, its gonna be slick clean