Marine Clean
02-02-2008, 07:00 PM
I guess it's about time to do a Q&A on wet sanding. Everything listed can be purchased from a local auto parts store. My products can be purchased at the MWBP store and the buffer from Harbor Freight.
This is a cross post that I copied/pasted from one of my earlier wetsanding threads. I do more Gel coat work and the last two paragraphs are from a buddy that does a lot of clear.
I encourage feedback and experiences from everyone. I know we've tried it many different ways, but this is the most basic way we've found to wetsand. I do all of my wetsanding by hand only and then use a variable speed buffer for the rest. I use a wool pad and one of my flexible backing plates. After I finish wetsanding and it's time for buffing; I start with the buffer on about 1200 for the first go around then I come back and hit it at about 2800.
We have to remember that each boat is a different situation and each will have different results.
I will give some examples of what you need to do the job.
You need 2000, 1500, 1200, 1000 and maybe 600-800 if it is that bad.
You need a sanding block/pad
You need Leverage Oxidation Remover or 3M Buffing Compound
You need a small bucket for water
You need a buffer with a wool pad
You need a mild wash solution
You need some clean Terry cloth towels
I would do a small area before you start to tackle the whole boat.
Make sure the surface is clean. Mix some dish soap and water in the bucket. Start with the wet(dip it in the soapy water)1500 on the block/pad. You don't need to apply a lot of pressure, let the paper do its job. Go in the same direction with maybe 10-15 strokes keeping the paper wet(you will see it removing the oxidation immediately) then wash the surface off. Then you can take a towel and dry the surface. From there you need to buff that area with my Oxidation Remover or 3M Buffing Compound. Then follow up the next day or two with Leverage Polish, Cleaner & UV Protectant.
I always start with a less abrasive grit. The 1500 is mild and is least likely for any mistakes. I would do that small area and see if you get the results with the 1500. If the paint is still faded then move down to 1200 and then 1000 if needed. After I finish with buffing I always wait until the next day or two before I apply my polish. I like to come back, look over my work and make sure I'm satisfied with my work before polishing.
I know this is somewhat of a quick list that might not address all of the questions, so ask away.
Donnie
BTW, My oxidation remover will also remove light scratches and 1000 grit sand marks
Good advice. I would add that I follow up the 1500 grit with 2000 on the gelcoat surface, and 2000 followed with 2500 on the painted / clear coated surfaces. Then polish with 3M Finesse It Microfine followed with a wax of one's choice. The additional sanding gives you a deeper shine in my opinion. On my boat you can hardly tell where the clear coat on the paint stops and the gel starts, normally cleared paint has far more depth than the gel.
Also if your are attempting to true up the gel surface / get rid of the inherent unevenness, you will have better luck if you cross block the surface with the corser grit then in line sand with the finer grits. Sounds like a ton of work but the results are worth the extra effort, and more sanding with finer grits simply means less time spent buffing.
This is a cross post that I copied/pasted from one of my earlier wetsanding threads. I do more Gel coat work and the last two paragraphs are from a buddy that does a lot of clear.
I encourage feedback and experiences from everyone. I know we've tried it many different ways, but this is the most basic way we've found to wetsand. I do all of my wetsanding by hand only and then use a variable speed buffer for the rest. I use a wool pad and one of my flexible backing plates. After I finish wetsanding and it's time for buffing; I start with the buffer on about 1200 for the first go around then I come back and hit it at about 2800.
We have to remember that each boat is a different situation and each will have different results.
I will give some examples of what you need to do the job.
You need 2000, 1500, 1200, 1000 and maybe 600-800 if it is that bad.
You need a sanding block/pad
You need Leverage Oxidation Remover or 3M Buffing Compound
You need a small bucket for water
You need a buffer with a wool pad
You need a mild wash solution
You need some clean Terry cloth towels
I would do a small area before you start to tackle the whole boat.
Make sure the surface is clean. Mix some dish soap and water in the bucket. Start with the wet(dip it in the soapy water)1500 on the block/pad. You don't need to apply a lot of pressure, let the paper do its job. Go in the same direction with maybe 10-15 strokes keeping the paper wet(you will see it removing the oxidation immediately) then wash the surface off. Then you can take a towel and dry the surface. From there you need to buff that area with my Oxidation Remover or 3M Buffing Compound. Then follow up the next day or two with Leverage Polish, Cleaner & UV Protectant.
I always start with a less abrasive grit. The 1500 is mild and is least likely for any mistakes. I would do that small area and see if you get the results with the 1500. If the paint is still faded then move down to 1200 and then 1000 if needed. After I finish with buffing I always wait until the next day or two before I apply my polish. I like to come back, look over my work and make sure I'm satisfied with my work before polishing.
I know this is somewhat of a quick list that might not address all of the questions, so ask away.
Donnie
BTW, My oxidation remover will also remove light scratches and 1000 grit sand marks
Good advice. I would add that I follow up the 1500 grit with 2000 on the gelcoat surface, and 2000 followed with 2500 on the painted / clear coated surfaces. Then polish with 3M Finesse It Microfine followed with a wax of one's choice. The additional sanding gives you a deeper shine in my opinion. On my boat you can hardly tell where the clear coat on the paint stops and the gel starts, normally cleared paint has far more depth than the gel.
Also if your are attempting to true up the gel surface / get rid of the inherent unevenness, you will have better luck if you cross block the surface with the corser grit then in line sand with the finer grits. Sounds like a ton of work but the results are worth the extra effort, and more sanding with finer grits simply means less time spent buffing.