Fixing Deep Scratches from Beaching

[Ridin Dirty]

Does anyone know of a way to fix some relatively deep scratches on the bottom side of the boat? Scratches are not down to the fiberglass but are pretty noticeable on the trailer.

I am looking for a way to fix them myself without taking it somewhere. Has anyone had decent luck doing this themselves or is this something to leave for the professionals? :mrgreen:

[Absolutely]

J its easy to do have you ever workrd with bondo? realy not much different hardest part is getting the color to match.
Heres a good how to from the Crowniehq web site


Here are the must-have items:
1. Gelcoat paste and hardener (included in kit)
2. Acetone
3. Q-Tips, or any brand with a paper stem, not plastic
4. 3M 800 and 1200 grit sandpaper.
5. A mixing board. I used the shiny side of pop or beer cartons. Just tear off a little peice for each mixing session and then throw it away. Try to use a white portion. Colors can bleed. Better yet, find something better you can throw away.
6. Rubbing compound. I used 3M Super Duty rubbing compound. There could be some better, this is what I already had and it does work and leaves a very shiny surface.
7. Something to "roughen" the scratch or gouge. I used a Dremel with a tiny, pointed, carbide tip at 1,000 rpms. It really removes material fast, so EXTREME care was needed here. I imagine a small drill bit (by hand) would work good to.
8. Something to buff with. Elbow grease and a terry cloth rag will do it, but I used a body shop style buffing machine with a 3M foam compounding pad and have yet to burn the gelcoat of any boat.
9. A sanding block. Sandpaper wrapped around a 4" straight paint stick will work fine, but I already had a $3 rubber sanding block like you can buy at Autozone. I recommend that one.

Before I forget, there are 2 things I've found to be important for a perfect result. The ding must have NO discoloration in it, or it will appear stained when the repair is buffed out. I had to re-do the buoy damage because I didn't get all the rust out of the scratches, and it showed up under the repair. This is where the Dremel came in very handy. I could "surgically" get down in the scratch. The other is, put the gelcoat on in thin layers. This is important. I've found that most dings will require 2, sometimes 3 applications for perfection.

Here's how you do it: Assess the damage to see what you need to do and remember this is only cosmetic, you won't make the boat sink. So relax. With my Dremel tool, I gently "rim out" the ding or scratch removing as little material as possible. Once I'm satisfied it looks smooth and not jagged, I'll dip a Q-Tip acetone on the defect several times.

Now I get the mixing board and dig out a pea sized amount of gel with a Q-Tip that's had one of the fuzzy ends broken off and wipe the gel on the board. The instructions said to use 1/2 jar of paste per repair. No thanks, I don't need that much and I'd like the jar to last more than twice. Make sure you use a new Q-Tip and mixing board for each mixing session. You don't want contamination. Take the bottle of hardener and just barely touch the nozzle to another area of the board to put a small puddle down. Touch the broken stem of the Q-Tip into the hardener and then begin mixing and mashing the paste very thoroughly. Do this fairly quick, but thoroughly. If you used too much hardener, it will harden within 5 minutes. Shoot for about a 30 minute hardening time. I recommend 2 or 3 experiments with the hardener before attempting to fix the boat. It's a little tricky for first timers.

Go over to the boat and use acetone on the defect once more. I've tried all kinds of stuff to apply the gel, but found my finger works best of all. So, using my index finger, I touch the gel on the board and dab it into the nick or scratch. When it looks like enough material, I'll use the pad portion of another finger and smear it into the damage. Don't worry, it'll look swirly. If you prepped other spots, do those now, but your mixture might be hardening and don't use it if it is. It needs to have the consistency of Vaseline, not chunky. You're done until tomorrow. The longer the better, because it could shrink some as it cures.

Now you're ready to sand. This was tough for me, but trust me, it will polish up like new again!! Use lots of water and listen for squeaky noises. That's dirt and will really scratch, so keep the water flowing on the boat and your sanding block. Use 800 grit and in circular motions over the repair, gently sand and rinse frequently. Keep going until the repair is leveled and has no really obvious "ring". You'll see what I mean. Stop and see if you have any valleys or voids. If so, lightly scuff the repaired gel and repeat the filling process. Do as above. Sand again and look for voids. You may need another filling for perfection. 3 fillings is the most I've had to do. After you're satisfied, get the 1200 grit out. It is used to remove the sanding swirls created by the 800 grit. 2 minutes per ding should do it and if you don't use the sanding block for the 1200 paper (I don't) watch your fingers. Keep them flat and move in a circular fashion so you don't get finger marks in your gelcoat because it'll look wavy which looks bad from a distance.

You should now have a perfectly color matched repair that is level and smooth. It'll appear hazy from the sanding but compounding will bring back that factory luster. I'm not going into how to polish because I know you Crownies are familiar with that.

After you've polished and waxed it, stand back and pat yourself on the back for the $$$$ you saved and how you can tell the dock monster to kiss your behind. Sorry this was so long and good luck if you try it. I'll help any way I can if you have ??'s. It really is easy and FUN, of all things!!

[Ridin Dirty]

HAHAHA.... I was really expecting a Smart A$$ answer on tips to beach the boat...lol.. You surprised me bro with some very useful information... Thanks and I havent seen you at Shelbyville but one time this year.. Whats up with that... [smilie=trink39] See you at the boat shows... [smilie=trink39]

Does anyone know where to find a gelcoat kit that would have the white color of a 2000 Baja... ?

[BajaJEFF]

The sandbar that you have been pulling up to [smilie=hah]

That's some good stuff, I need to fix some from our controlled crashes also.

[Ridin Dirty]

The sandbar that you have been pulling up to [smilie=hah]

That's some good stuff, I need to fix some from our controlled crashes also.

Guess I wouldnt have to worry about matching the colors then would I... [smilie=hah] [smilie=hah]

[GVL]

The controlled crashes here at the gas dock shake the whole sea store:shock: [smilie=crazy] [smilie=hah] [smilie=appl] [smilie=appl]

[h2oboy]

If they're not too deep, they may be able to be wet sanded out. Or, do like me, and store your boat at a fiberglass shop :mrgreen:

[Absolutely]

HAHAHA.... I was really expecting a Smart A$$ answer on tips to beach the boat...lol.. You surprised me bro with some very useful information... Thanks and I havent seen you at Shelbyville but one time this year.. Whats up with that... [smilie=trink39] See you at the boat shows... [smilie=trink39]

Does anyone know where to find a gelcoat kit that would have the white color of a 2000 Baja... ?

Do you beach alot? might want to get a keel guard

[BajaJEFF]

Do you beach alot? might want to get a keel guard

I have heard too many bad things about those to put one on my boat.

[TrimItUp]

J its easy to do have you ever workrd with bondo? realy not much different hardest part is getting the color to match.
Heres a good how to from the Crowniehq web site


Here are the must-have items:
1. Gelcoat paste and hardener (included in kit)
2. Acetone
3. Q-Tips, or any brand with a paper stem, not plastic
4. 3M 800 and 1200 grit sandpaper.
5. A mixing board. I used the shiny side of pop or beer cartons. Just tear off a little peice for each mixing session and then throw it away. Try to use a white portion. Colors can bleed. Better yet, find something better you can throw away.
6. Rubbing compound. I used 3M Super Duty rubbing compound. There could be some better, this is what I already had and it does work and leaves a very shiny surface.
7. Something to "roughen" the scratch or gouge. I used a Dremel with a tiny, pointed, carbide tip at 1,000 rpms. It really removes material fast, so EXTREME care was needed here. I imagine a small drill bit (by hand) would work good to.
8. Something to buff with. Elbow grease and a terry cloth rag will do it, but I used a body shop style buffing machine with a 3M foam compounding pad and have yet to burn the gelcoat of any boat.
9. A sanding block. Sandpaper wrapped around a 4" straight paint stick will work fine, but I already had a $3 rubber sanding block like you can buy at Autozone. I recommend that one.

Before I forget, there are 2 things I've found to be important for a perfect result. The ding must have NO discoloration in it, or it will appear stained when the repair is buffed out. I had to re-do the buoy damage because I didn't get all the rust out of the scratches, and it showed up under the repair. This is where the Dremel came in very handy. I could "surgically" get down in the scratch. The other is, put the gelcoat on in thin layers. This is important. I've found that most dings will require 2, sometimes 3 applications for perfection.

Here's how you do it: Assess the damage to see what you need to do and remember this is only cosmetic, you won't make the boat sink. So relax. With my Dremel tool, I gently "rim out" the ding or scratch removing as little material as possible. Once I'm satisfied it looks smooth and not jagged, I'll dip a Q-Tip acetone on the defect several times.

Now I get the mixing board and dig out a pea sized amount of gel with a Q-Tip that's had one of the fuzzy ends broken off and wipe the gel on the board. The instructions said to use 1/2 jar of paste per repair. No thanks, I don't need that much and I'd like the jar to last more than twice. Make sure you use a new Q-Tip and mixing board for each mixing session. You don't want contamination. Take the bottle of hardener and just barely touch the nozzle to another area of the board to put a small puddle down. Touch the broken stem of the Q-Tip into the hardener and then begin mixing and mashing the paste very thoroughly. Do this fairly quick, but thoroughly. If you used too much hardener, it will harden within 5 minutes. Shoot for about a 30 minute hardening time. I recommend 2 or 3 experiments with the hardener before attempting to fix the boat. It's a little tricky for first timers.

Go over to the boat and use acetone on the defect once more. I've tried all kinds of stuff to apply the gel, but found my finger works best of all. So, using my index finger, I touch the gel on the board and dab it into the nick or scratch. When it looks like enough material, I'll use the pad portion of another finger and smear it into the damage. Don't worry, it'll look swirly. If you prepped other spots, do those now, but your mixture might be hardening and don't use it if it is. It needs to have the consistency of Vaseline, not chunky. You're done until tomorrow. The longer the better, because it could shrink some as it cures.

Now you're ready to sand. This was tough for me, but trust me, it will polish up like new again!! Use lots of water and listen for squeaky noises. That's dirt and will really scratch, so keep the water flowing on the boat and your sanding block. Use 800 grit and in circular motions over the repair, gently sand and rinse frequently. Keep going until the repair is leveled and has no really obvious "ring". You'll see what I mean. Stop and see if you have any valleys or voids. If so, lightly scuff the repaired gel and repeat the filling process. Do as above. Sand again and look for voids. You may need another filling for perfection. 3 fillings is the most I've had to do. After you're satisfied, get the 1200 grit out. It is used to remove the sanding swirls created by the 800 grit. 2 minutes per ding should do it and if you don't use the sanding block for the 1200 paper (I don't) watch your fingers. Keep them flat and move in a circular fashion so you don't get finger marks in your gelcoat because it'll look wavy which looks bad from a distance.

You should now have a perfectly color matched repair that is level and smooth. It'll appear hazy from the sanding but compounding will bring back that factory luster. I'm not going into how to polish because I know you Crownies are familiar with that.

After you've polished and waxed it, stand back and pat yourself on the back for the $$$$ you saved and how you can tell the dock monster to kiss your behind. Sorry this was so long and good luck if you try it. I'll help any way I can if you have ??'s. It really is easy and FUN, of all things!!

Exactaly what i would do. Your mixing board works better if it is a miller lite carton. Be sure to put beer on ice before you get started.

In all seriousness I bought an ancor buddy it keps the boat about 15 feet off shore and you just pull your boat to you when you want to board it works great. www.slideanchor.com

[Bootypirate]

Does anyone know where to find a gelcoat kit that would have the white color of a 2000 Baja... ?


Try MiniCraft (http://www.minicraft.com/) They carry pretty much all the OEM colors for all the major manufacturers. It comes in sizes from an aerosol up to 5 gallons. I suppose a 5 gallon bucket should probably about get it.

[Absolutely]

I have heard too many bad things about those to put one on my boat.

Never had a problem on any of my past boats but I have seen the Keelshields turn yellow over time